A different side of Napa | Platinum Magazine, June 2026

When you think of Napa Valley, what image comes to mind? 

For me it’s the stunning rolling hills, lush vineyards, and Mediterranean-like climate of California that produces some of the world's most celebrated wines. The region is famed for blendingnatural beauty with a refined culinary culture, drawing hordes of visitors to its sun-drenched estates, farm-to-table restaurants, and scenic drives lined with oak trees and endless rows of vines.  

And the wines reflect that warm climate – their Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir offerings are bold, punchy and direct – great if that’s what you’re after but often a bit much for the UK palate, accustomed as we are to looking for lighter styles, more freshness, lower alcohol. Napa, then, has become associated with big, powerful wines and even bigger price tags – but does it fit the way we want to drink today? 

After speaking with Lisa Togni of Philip Togni Vineyard, I found myself rethinking my Napa assumptions entirely. 

Set high up on Spring Mountain, above the valley floor, her vineyard feels removed from the version of Napa most people know. The air is cooler, the soils are poorer and well-drained and the vines are forced to work harder, naturally limiting yields and preserving freshness. 

Lisa grew up here, surrounded by vines and by a family deeply rooted in wine. Her family has been on this land since the 1970s, with vines now averaging around 40 years old. 

“This is my home,” she told me. “This vineyard will never bore me or not challenge me enough… I can keep doing my thing here.” 

What struck me is how Lisa speaks about winemaking and her ‘first, do no harm’ philosophy: “The real work is growing the grapes,” she says. “Winemaking is… really not getting in the way.” 

Everything is estate grown – she doesn’t buy any fruit in. The focus is on the vineyard, block by block, season by season, responding to what nature gives rather than trying to control it. 

The estate is fully organic and entirely solar powered and this comes from a desire to farm better rather than to follow a trend. Organic wine means grapes are grown without synthetic chemicals, herbicides or pesticides, which means the vineyard functions as a healthier, living ecosystem. This is a trend I see increasingly with female winemakers. 

“Growing organically has made a healthier vineyard,” she explains. “There is more life in the soil. Purity and honesty and authenticity is so important nowadays, more than ever.” 

And then there’s the style of Lisa’s wines, which will surprise most Napa enthusiasts. 

“I don’t like big alcoholic wines,” she says. “I prefer wines that complement food.” 

Her wines sit below 14% alcohol, which notably restrained for Napa. Lisa achieves this through careful picking decisions she notes that “picking a day earlier or later can significantly impact the wine.” 

Her Cabernet Sauvignon, for examples, offers depth and structure but also a restraint that feels far more aligned with how many of us in the UK want to drink today. 

You can’t think about Napa without thinking about California’s all-too-regular wildfires. The fires are now an unavoidable part of Napa Valley viniculture, with the heat and smoke becoming a real challenge for producers. For Lisa, resilience starts in the vineyard. Her vines are farmed without irrigation, forcing the roots to grow deeper into the soil and find their own water, which helps them cope better with challenging conditions over time. 

When I asked Lisa whether she expects her children to follow in her footsteps, her answer wasn’t fixed. She hopes they will feel a connection to the vineyard, that same sense of place and pride she grew up with but also feels it needs to be their choice. Her teenaged children are experiencing her world daily - both the beauty and the hard work that comes with it. “I would love them to be part of this,” she says, “but I won’t force it. What matters most is that they feel rooted here, whether they choose wine or something completely different.” 

These are not everyday wines. With bottles starting around £150, they sit firmly in the premium category. Even if, in comparison to Napa’s most famous names, this is still a fraction of the price. 

Napa at its best isn’t trying to compete with everyday drinking – even as Lisa speaks about wanting wine to feel more accessible, more part of everyday life. “Wine should be enjoyed as part of a meal… with friends or family… with all good things, it should be in moderation.” 

What Lisa represents is a different side of Napa, one that is less about power and more about place, less about winemaking technique and more about farming, and ultimately, more about balance than excess. 

Philip Togni Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 

Cassis, black cherry and a touch of graphite lead, but what defines this wine is its freshness. There is lift, fine structured tannins and a quiet restraint that keeps everything in balance. Lisa recommends pairing with a grilled steak and mushrooms, or sautéed wild mushrooms with shallots and cream.  

What to buy instead. Because, realistically, most of us aren’t buying £150 bottles of wine. But you’re curious about this fresher, more restrained style of Californian wine there are a couple ofproducers well worth seeking out. 

Bedrock, Wine Co  - A brilliant place to start. Prices from £35 a bottle. 

Ridge Vineyards, Sonoma County One of the most reliable names in California.  Prices from £40 a bottle.

Elizabeth Hawthornthwaite, Platinum Magazine, June 2026